How to build a PC: The Tech Report Guide

How to build a PC

you want to build a PC; the following guide will walk you through every step in the process say for selecting the individual components that make up the build for suggestions on parts for within your budgets.

The enthusiast for the system, we’re putting together today uses parks pulled from our stash if test hardware in addition to a stack of components provided graciously before beginning your build clear large clean work area preferably devoid of ‘s era shag carpet and anything else that might induce a static electrical charge gather a few q-tips some rubbing alcohol a fistful of zip ties and a Phillips head screwdriver the few screws will encounter a relatively small so it helps to have a screwdriver with the magnetic tip crowd yourself before doing anything else you can discharge any static by touching a large metal object like a filing cabinet the frame on the desk or even a metal PC case ground yourself frequently .

If you’re in a carpeted room or wearing static prone fabrics like polyester just moving around may be enough to generate a static charge and PC components are largely interchangeable but you can’t combine just anything CPU’s coolers, and motherboards are designed around particular sockets and the motherboard’s form factor needs to match the case and the sockets are riddled with tiny holes to accept pins on the bottom of the CPU Intel’s LGA sockets work in reverse but depends on the motherboard and contact pads on the CPU Intel and AMD both have different versions that the devices so make sure your CPU and motherboard match.

Motherboards come in three main sizes or form factors a TX microarray TX and many I TX X is the largest all the by my create EX and many I TX with illustrated these with the A’s is Zp-v Ashby and export the Pz-v Ash a.m. Pro by creating ex-model and the Pz-v dash I too lax which is many I TX the bigger the board the more room there is for memory expansion slots a TX cases can handle all three form factors my critics cases support my create EX and many IT experts but it’s not possible to install board into a case met for a smaller form factor some components are easier to it with the motherboard outside the case start by putting the board on a flat inflated surface.

First will install the CPU a process that’s different depending on whether you’re using Intel socket let’s start with an AMD, which plugs into an outlet am ready. Fm socket by matching the metal lever away from the side and then swing it all the way back pick up the CPU by carefully pinching it between your thumb and forefinger. The Pens are fragile I’ll so don’t ban them one corner the CPU will have a small triangular marker line it up with the corresponding mark on the socket and lower the CPU slowly into place when the CPU is seated there will be no gap between the room in the package and the surface of the socket press down on the CPU gently with your finger then swing the leatherback into its original position tucked under the plastic tab on the side of the sock the Intel LGA socket for our builds core I k processor is similar to operate but there are a couple have extra steps first delete remove the protective plastic cover from the face of the socket espy’s shields the underlying pens .

so, be careful next unhook the medal ever by pushing it away from the socket then swing back to lever the LGA arm swings back much farther than its counterpart on the FM one sock Intel CPU’s are aligned with LGA socket seizing indentations in the processor package to semi-circular notches appear on opposing edges of the processor matching a corresponding parables on the inner walls at the soccer pick up the CPU by carefully pinching it between your thumb and forefinger be sure to pinch the edges without the notches match the notches to the socket before slowly lowering the CPU into place from the CPU is resting in the socket we got the chip gently to make sure it’s all the way in after the CPUC to soak the middle frame properly down onto the processor that’s when the lever back to its original position makes sure the teeth at the end of the frame straddle the anchors for next to the socket a little bit of force will be required, but the lever under the metal tab the locks a socket shot now that the CPU is in stock old .

it needs to be prepped for the cooler start by cleaning the heat spreader the metal cap covering the top to the processor give the heat spreader a quick scrub using a q-tip dipped in rubbing alcohol brushed metal cap gently to remove any particular or oily residue that might have been deposited on the surface you can also use a higher concentration alcohol or a paper towel just be sure you don’t leave behind any fibres or other debris on the CPU the stock coolers bundled with the retail box CPU’s typically have a thermal interface material or pre-applied to the day so the heat sink if you don’t have a separate tube thermal paste leave the factory coding as is you can skip straight to install in the cooler folks who want to replace the stock with another compound first need to get rid of the original why bother because stock tips are usually thicker than is optimal for heat transfer only a thin layer of compound is required to fill surface imperfections in the base the heat sink at the top of the heat spreader teams usually need to be scraped off avoid using metal tools which can leave scratches in the basal heat sink we recommend something with a hard plastic age like a credit card once the Tim has been scraped off scrub the surface with rubbing alcohol if any residue remains you may need to resort to a more noxious solvents like nail polish remover if you’re cooler is free it’s still worth taking a moment to clean the bay so the heat sink neither alcohol soaked Q-tip should do the trick their different schools of thought on how to best apply for more compound clear makers typically recommend squeezing a key size dollop coupon to the centre the CPU’s heat spreader and popping the heat sink down right on top that lump tightening the coolers retention mechanism will flatten the blog compound spreading evenly between the CPU and heat sink if you’re really you can spread the compound by hand using a credit card razor blade something like the plastic to overusing some compounds can leave the silver stain on skin and clothing so be careful concentrate on spreading the compound evenly over the CPU unless you’re a seasoned builder we recommend letting the heat sink to all the spreading in our experience a lazy approach doesn’t result in substantially higher CPU temperatures CPU coolers in all shapes and sizes we’re going to show you a few different variations starting with the stock AMD design AMD socket set integrated heating brackets that are screwed onto the motherboard not the outward facing tabs in the middle with each one stock AMD callers have a metal beam that anchors the he checked to these tabs one end to the people have a leper which should be open place the cooler on the CPU landing at the ends the being with the plastic tabs ok the beam up to the tab starting with the side opposite the lever then flip the lever down to lock the cooler onto the sock what’s the cooler secure like the fan into the corresponding header on the motherboard use the three or four pin header Park CPU near the soccer the motherboard manual indicate its precise location don’t worry if the number of pins on the motherboard doesn’t match the foam plug DC fans work just fine in PWM headers the PWM fans work in DC headers just be sure to line up the plastic tab on the header with the ridges on the fan connector Intel stock cooler is a quite different Mandy’s instead of a mounting bracket well the birds have four holes for the heat sinks anchoring posts before the heat sink is mounted its push pins need to be primed rotate the cap on top of each post counter clockwise talk up to ensure the attached black pen is recessed in the post then rotate the caps clock what’s the capture turn only ninety degrees lower the cooler onto the stock a the post lined up with the holes in the motherboard when the cooler is resting comfortably push the post down one at a time secure the pins on opposite corners on the socket first much like you would when bolting a wheel onto a car the pen should make an audible click when they lock into place to make sure the pins are secure flip the motherboard you should see a protruding black tip pushing apart the translucent pieces to anchor the pushpin after mounting the CPU cooler plug in the Feb stock Intel coolers typically use -pin PWM matters if you need to remove the intercooler wrote a post counter clockwise pull up on each one to release depends then lift the cooler of the sock the poster slotted to accept a flathead screwdriver if you can’t reach them with their fingers the retention mechanism is loose but the cooler still feels bonded to the CPU rotate the heat sink back and forth slightly some thermal compound have a tendency to stick. but the twisting motion usually breaks the grip you don’t want to yank of the cooler with the CPU stuck to the bottom compared to aftermarket equivalents the stock cooler sold with AMD and Intel processors are relatively small the fan said on top of the heat sink blowing air down onto stands perpendicular to the motherboard aftermarket solutions are typically made up a tall radiator that rises up from the stock one or two fans pushing air parallel to the surface of the motherboard combining more surface area with greater airflow tends to produce lower temperatures and less know it’s aftermarket cooler sometimes you similar mounting mechanisms to their stock counterparts but many rely on custom back plate hardware follow the instructions associated with the cooler this Corsair Air Series a seventy is pretty typical breed back plates it under the motherboard in the cooler is attached to it using notes on each corner remember to tighten opposite corners first the fans are attached separately which is often the case for aftermarket coolers since the fans blow parallel to the board make sure the airflow is pointing towards a chassis exhaust at usually found in the rear or top also the case chance to pick Lee indicate the direction of airflow with arrows located on the edge of the frame one arrow indicates the path airflow while the other shows the rotational direction of fat if there are no markers to use as a guide most fans blow in the direction of the frame holding the rotor and its associated motor the intake side is typically completely open or covered by a grill to prevent your fingers from getting munched by the blades cooler orientation is also important for memory compatibility the a he doesn’t branch out from the socket enough to overlap or motherboard stem slots but what if its fans tax will remove it to make room for the tall heat spreaders on our Corsair Dominator memory most desktop systems use dual channel memory for optimal performance per channel is required motherboards typically come with four slots per channel if you’re-installing only to dance check the motherboard manual for guidance on which stocks to use to Tim can fix typically drop into slots labelled a one and b the letter signify the channel well the numbers reveal the order in which the slots should be populated before installing the memory make sure the plastic retention tabs at the end to the gym slots are open some motherboards like a raises pm-v Ashby have retention tabs on only one side at the memory slot teams are key to fit only one way making installation simple line up a notch the bottom edge at the memory module with the separator near the middle of the slot then slide the module into place applied even downward pressure to both sides at the top edge to the module to see that fully in the slot-seeking the memory should cause a retention tips to swing up if they don’t but the tabs with your finger so the hook into the notches in the demands every case is different but there too predominately out to the world PC towers traditional designs to put the power supply both the motherboard and upside down ones that do the opposite are Corsair Obsidian Series Ti is an example of the latter has about two little features that will help during our build plus an actual peripherals to plugging along the way first remove the side panels and set them aside this case is a tool-free latching mechanism but some enclosures require a screwdriver for this step the left panel exposes the main compartment well the right panel will provide access to the back side of the motherboard tray which is where we’ll be hiding cable motherboards are mounted onto the tray using a series embrace posts that line up with holes in the circuit board Ti has these posts pre-installed if your case doesn’t screw in the post tightly by hand should be included in a bag with all the others group make sure the post-match the whole pattern to the motherboard otherwise they can short expose solder points and damage the system we recommend using the full posts with an X motherboard after securing the posts install the i/o shield that came with your motherboard some cases come with their own I’ll shields but odds are they won’t match the Portland at the airport pop out the existing shield by pushing it into the case from the outside install the new one by pressing it into the rectangular cut out next to the motherboard tray make sure the shield is the right way around half-dozen or so circular holes for the audio jacks should be on the left side towards the expansion slot covers summer shields internal tabs may block the portholes a little bit end up any they get in the way although newer cases use tool-free mechanisms for most parts PCs have traditionally relied on a series of different screws to secure the various components we’ll start with a couple of m screws with different caps not the type to its basic the screws with larger heads are typically reserved for motherboards and optical drives all those with smaller heads for use with SSD’s next to them screws are apparent screws mat for hard drives PSU’s expansion cards and side panels the threat spacing is much larger here use a small headed screws for hard drives and the larger heads for everything else a lot of cases secure side panels and expansion cards with screws that have huge I’m friendly heads XO that we had the screw used to attach case paths last but not least as some other part post before putting the motherboard inside the case it’s worth populating the drive base we’ll start with a . Hr drive typically be affixed to rails or drive sled that slides easily into the case in the Ti remove one of the sleds sucks the walls away from each other and then place the drive between them the metal knobs on the walls will line up with the screw holes on the side so the drive if your case doesn’t have tool free sleds use the screw holes to affix the drive to the cage its rubber grommets are included with the case use them like spacers between the drive in the cage rubber grommets help dampen vibration eyes and the Ti slides have them pre-installed in cheese’s with removable right panels try to point the drives connectors to the right side that’s where we’re going to hide the cabling if you can get the right side of the cage Korean to drive so their connectors are accessible SSD’s is a smaller . Inch form factor meant for notebook trucks most newer cases at mounting holes for this sites usually on the same slate used for hard drives the Ti lead to screw the SSD onto the bottom of the drive slot don’t worry about crime it’s here SSD have no moving parts, so they don’t generate vibration or no it’s if your case doesn’t have dedicated . Inch mounting hardware bus SSD’s come with. Inch paid actors attach the adapter to the SSD that put the whole thing into the. Inch replacement Korean connectors to match the hard drive the D’s drive cage sits next to a massive fan.

so we’ve put the SSD hard drive near the middle of the path airflow you don’t have a fan near the cage but the drive slower that is usually where temperatures are cooler the police one day’s work in space between them optical drives have in the way floppies just yet Blu-ray and DVD Drive slip and external . inch base which typically have covers that need to be removed are d case requires that the front bezel be removed before popping of the bay cover basil’s are usually held by plastic tabs on the inside vertical edges to press the tabs and pop off the bezel with the dazzle removed we can pop out the cover associated with the day we want to use choose the bay that the easiest to reach depending on whether your case will be sitting on top of your desk or beneath light up the puzzles plastic tabs before snapping it back into place slide in the optical drive until its flush with the bezel then flipped the tool-free latching mechanism to lock things in place if you don’t have a tool-free Bay secure the drive with screws optical drives have four screw holes per side use at least one at the front and back up each side at the drive most enclosure at least a couple have their own cooling fans already installed he’s worked just fine you can swap in quieter or more powerful units to show you the process we’re going to ditch the millimetre rear exhaust fan for Corsair Air Series AF most cases suck in air from the front and exhausted out the rear and top it’s working to orient the fan to blow outside the case remember that the fan direction is indicated on the side of the frame remove the existing fans four screws and use them to affix the new one if the holes in the fan don’t line up with the once the melting point the fan probably isn’t the right size but the case primed it’s time to install them board they the case on its side to the poor can be lowered onto the track depending on how much room there is to work inside your case the motherboard may need to be answered at an angle but the port side first line-up the ports with the holes in the i/o shield and let the board rest on the Pokes the Board may need to be nudged towards the rear the case to line up the screw holes magnetic tip screwdriver really helps when guiding the tiny screws into the posts as he did with the CPU cooler tighten the screws on opposing corners first that should keep the port centered over the posts circuit boards are more fragile than the cases metal panels tighten the screws until they’re snug but don’t give them an extra twist after that next start wiring the motherboard for the clean this layout run cables along the right side of the case behind the drive cage and the motherboard tray you rich ass he should have enough routing holes to keep the cables hidden until they need to poke out to make connections to the motherboard the excess wiring hanging loosely on the right side of the chassis for now that side will be tidied up when everything is connected will tackle the front panel connectors first find the Butler fan wires with ends labelled power SW reset SW power LED and HDD LED these control the power and reset switches plus the LED’s at the front of the case motherboard makers still haven’t agreed on a standard layout for front panel connectors still have to consult the manual to see where the wires go they should all plug into a single block of pins on the board some boards by crazies pm-v Ashby come with a separate pin blocked that allows this wiring to be done outside the case simply attach the connectors to the auxiliary block then plug back into the motherboard front panel USB to you firewire an audio ports use ten pin connectors to Turkey differently to prevent insertion into the wrong header locate the Associated headers on the motherboard and connect the front panel ports accordingly our systems motherboard doesn’t have firewire we’re going to skip that connector were returned to the front panel audio after we install our sound card there are two ways to connect the front panel USB ports found in most newer cases the first method relies on a blocked the plugs directly into a motherboard header the Ti lacks the matching connector but it has leads the plug-in the USB ports in the rear cluster well for these cables at the back of the case and into the reports blue internals differentiate USB ports from slower USB ports next connect the system fans most case fans use DC plug similar to those employed by CPU coolers by the port dedicated headers for system fans typically labelled ch a or s YS the manual map out the location so these actors some fancy is much larger -pin Molex connectors these fans need to be plugged into the power supply which will install in a moment installing a graphics card is easy we’re going to use a Zeus’s HD direct see you too top which is a mid-range offering with the beefy dual slot cooler although the card plugs into only one PCI Express expansion slot the cooler takes up to slot will need to remove to the expansion slot covers the back at the case to make room for the graphics card to determine which ones look at the primary PCI Express x slot which is usually one of the top slots on the motherboard our ports top spot as a PCI Express x which is much shorter than the X slot below it below those two is another x slot followed by an all-school PCI slot note how the PCIe and PCI slots have notches in different positions to prevent cards from being inserted incorrectly remove the expansion slot cover next to the x slot also remove one below it if you have a dual slot card lower the car did to the appropriate slot make sure the display outputs are facing the back in a case apply even pressure along the top edge to see pic artfully secure the car to the chassis with the screws from the expansion slot covers if you need to remove the graphics card be sure to release the retention tab located at the end to the slope motherboard use different mechanisms and you might need to use a poking tool to reach the tab in a fully loaded system you can rent two graphics cards to improve performance the second car is installed in the secondary PCI Express x slot ideally with some breathing room between it and the first card don’t block airflow to the coolers fans if you can avoid it to cart set-ups need to be linked using the golden finger connectors along the top edge to cart your motherboard should come with a short ribbon cable or circuit board met for this purpose this will be labelled as a liver g-force cards and crossfire for radio ads expansion cards a good for more than just graphics we can also add sound cards TV tuners we were fast SSD use and other goodies we recommend sound cards to anyone with halfway decent speakers or headphones sir going to install raises his own RDG sound card this car has an all-school PCI interface and the installation process is similar to what we went through with the graphics card remove the appropriate expansion slot cover from the back at the case Korean Picard reports facing the rear then apply even pressure along the top edge to seat the card in the slot looks good right wrong the card locks the graphics cards fans we should really move it to a lower slot instead of doing that for going to swap in the Xonar DGX a PCI Express x version at the DG motherboards only accessible x slot is between the graphics card in the processor an area we don’t want a crowd any further we use the lowest PCI Express x slot on the board police plenty of room for future upgrades PCI Express x cards can fit into any PCIe slot with a higher number the x interface isn’t long enough to activate the retention tab at the end of the slot but spring the back plate at the chassis will hold the cards steady books out cards have ten pin headers for front panel headphone and microphone jacks like the front panel USB and FireWire connectors the audio connector is keyed if it only one way if you’re using the motherboard’s integrated audio instead of a discrete sound card you can find a similar blocker pins on the board usually this will be labelled FP audio our system is nearly complete but we still need at the power supply traditional PSU’s have all their cabling attached a modular ones allow users to connect only the power lease required by their systems year we have Corsairs GS a traditional design and the modular AX all those tentacles branching off the GS can complicate installation and wiring you’ll be left with the bundle up extra leaves that needs to be tucked away somewhere inside the case with a modern PSU these extra leads can be left in the box where they won’t get in the way we prefer modular PSU use so we’re going to use the AX most key issues have bottom mounted fans that suck air into the unit and expel it through vents at the rear this arrangement works well for traditional cases than out the PSU above the motherboard because the power supply and some pics Austin hot air from around the CPU an upside-down chassis like ours this orientation sucks air through events and the case is slower that’s okay in the d which has a removable filter to prevent us from getting Hoover Dam to the PSU if you have an upside-down case with them unfiltered intake and will be setting the system on the floor you probably want to flip the unit so the fans faces up the orientation at the PSU can only be changed if the enclosure has the appropriate mounting holes for the Flip cam pic a lot of them do including the Ti PSU’s attach the a formality calls on the rear panel the screw holes in the PSU have an asymmetrical pattern which is why some cases work with only one orientation light up the holes and attach the PSU using the screws include with the case check the manual if your setup doesn’t resemble the one with illustrated Ti has a secondary bracket that screws into the floor the case will make sure the extra bracket is snug against the PSU before screwing in upside-down cases like the Ti tend to leave a lot a room around the PSU making it easy to connect the modular power leads after installation if your chassis is in his roomy connect the cables to the PSU before putting it into the case the systems will need -pin primary connectors and Ford a pen auxiliary -volt connectors for the motherboard graphics cards require one or two six to eight-pin PCI Express leads you also need as many sad connectors as you have hard drives SSD used an optical drives we don’t need any -pin Molex or floppy connectors for our build but you might require them for yours all the components called but we still need to make a bunch of connections before we fire up the system this is where you really want to pay close attention to clearly reading the cables through the portal surrounding the motherboard tray your case doesn’t have room for cabling behind the tree try to run wires along the internal scaffolding most Japanese have enough internal perforations our anchoring points to secure cables with zip ties don’t start strapping the cables in place until they’re all connected attach all the drives using the serial ATA data cables included with the motherboard in our system well the cables for the hard drive the SSD and the optical drive the Sadar King station integrated into the top at the case has its own cable attached already Santa cables are key to connect in only one orientation use the l-shaped socket as a guide for the tip at the cable if one other tips is at a right angle connect that and to the drive rather than to the motherboard connective ice is one at a time to keep track of what’s plugged in where you want to make sure any SSD’s are connected to the motherboard gigabit per second Sat a port hard drives are worth plugging into the sports to you but optical drives are too slow for it to matter the motherboard manual should identify the speech on port all of which are numbered it will also tell you which ports are connected to the AMD or Intel platform jobs rather than to exhilarate sadder controllers these are usually the ports with the lowest numbers use the AMD or Intel ports first since they tend to be faster or closure leaves enough room around the edges the motherboard to plug inside the cables without too much contortion if you’re working in a tighter enclosure the crowds Satter ports removing the graphics card can help make those parts Mark sensible now we need to make sure everything can drop our from the PSU with modular power supplies connect cables first to the PSU and then to the appropriate components one at a time the power supply socket should be key to accept only the rate leads start with the motherboards primary power connector line up the clip on the plug with the tab on the outside at the motherboard socket if the connector doesn’t slide into the socket smoothly try flipping it around next attach the auxiliary -volt connector ritual use four or eight pence depending on the board PSU cables often have the highest number of pins that might be required by given socket but the end plugs can be split to accommodate lower caps sometimes or cable is too short to be threaded behind the motherboard tray cable extensions are available or you could string the cable across the top to the motherboard most graphics cards require external power in the form of one or two PCIe connectors ours needs to -pin connectors if your PSU doesn’t have enough PCIe connectors for your graphics card work the plug simply don’t have enough pens check the graphics card box for an adapter finally attach the satyr power cables to the SSD the hard drive and the optical drive we’re going to connect the D’s docking station to the power supply too with everything connected it’s time to tie up loose ends literally you zip ties to neatly arrange the cabling it’s best to bundle adjacent cables rather than dealing with them all individually keep a low profile behind the motherboard tray otherwise the right side panel might bulge out when it’s replaced also avoid blocking the cut out that provides access to the underside of the CPU socket the right side of the chassis can look a little messy as long as the main compartment is clean only the left side will be visible through the tease window panel if you have a traditional PSU the lax modular cables bundle up all the in-use leaves and stuff them somewhere that won’t block airflow before we move on the final touches we’re going to perform a quick upgrade we wouldn’t have recommended water cooling to an experienced builders a few years ago but new work closely coolers are sealed at the factory reducing the chance leaks they’re also very easy to install closely coolers like this Corsair Hydro Series h tend to follow a consistent theme a block sets on the CPU and is linked to the radiator be a couple a flexible cooling tubes the radiator usually attach it to a case is millimetres fan mail which are Ti conveniently has right next to the CPU socket most water coolers are bolted to the CPU using custom mounting brackets and back plates if your case is motherboard tray doesn’t have a cut out under the socket elite remove the board since each course mounting mechanism is slightly different consult the manual before installation remove both the existing heat sink and the rear fan before installing the water cooler if this upgrade is being performed on a system you’ve been using make sure to unplug the power cord pad is supposed to be attached to the cases rear panel and then to the stock Corsair recommends orienting dual fans to suck air into the case and over the radiator and will oblige has a massive exhaust and up top we don’t necessarily need more air blowing out at the case although the h comes to the couple have its own fans we snapped in San air series sp spinners from Corsair they look better on video what’s the radiator and fans are connected install the CPU block be sure to clean up any old thermal compound of the CPU before applying a new coat for the water cooler on the block is secure connect the coolest and plugs the Hubs fans attach directly to block which has its own leads to plug into the motherboard CPU fan header and a -pin Molex connector for the PSU with only internal components installed it’s time to attach side panels hang connect the external peripherals move the case to its desired location before looking at the keyboard mouse monitor and audio your keyboard most likely have USB connectors use the courts and the rear cluster and avoid the ones with blue internal tabs if you cap keyboards and mice don’t need USB next will attach in networking cable to the motherboards key committee Internet port which looks like an oversized phone jack you remember that was right the other end to this cable should rent directly to your router modem or Internet gateway wired networks offer much higher transfer rates than wireless ones the WiFi is still fast enough for most internet connections pz-v Ashby has built in WiFi school attach the included antenna connect the monitor to the graphics card rather than to the motherboard which has its own collection a video out if your monitor has only an analogue VGA input recognizable from computers dating back to the ‘s he might be able to find an adapter in the graphics card box are ease’s Pro Arte PA cue monitor has three digital inputs Display Port HDMI and DVI HDMI and Display Port are capable of carrying audio signals alongside video which can sometimes cause windows to mistakenly set the monitor is the primary i do. output since most folks will probably use separate speakers or headphones we recommend DVI if you’re running a sound card be sure to use its audio ports instead other ones and the motherboards requester we’re going to plug in AZ smoking ANC headset into the front panel ports but we’ve already connected to the Xonar sound card speaker should be logged into the sound card reports class connection to make its power from the wall socket unnecessary cable should be included with the PSU remember to flip the master power switch at the back at the PSU before attempting to turn on the system otherwise known as the Buyer us for UEFI motherboard for more controls numerous the Samaria values getting into the interface typically requires hitting a specific key often delete or f during the first few seconds after powering on the system the splash screen that pops up on boot will indicate which he needs to be pressed the new generation and firmware implementations have rich graphical interfaces complete without support each motherboard maker has a different interface style we can’t walk you through the mall the settings will be tweaking are fairly consistent from one bar to the next first we’re going to update the motherboards for more most former has an integrated flash utility you can download the latest release for your specific model from the manufacturer’s website but the firmware file on a USB thumb drive connected to the system and food into the firmware interface from there you should be able to launch the flashing utility and select the firmware file on a thumb drive make sure the system doesn’t lose power during the flashing process otherwise your motherboard might get hosed with the firmware up today a we can move on to tweaking a few settings the firmware should have a default profile you can revert back to you in order to erase any changes honour AZ’s pm-v Ashby motherboard also the settings are confined to the Events section at the interface will start by checking the CPU’s power management features which keep the chip from drying to much juice at idle if you have an AMD based rig picture cool n quiet is enabled Intel systems turn on Speed Step also make sure turbo is enabled for both AMD and Intel processors this will raise the CPU clock speed winter most from it a-sixes recent Intel motherboards have a multi-core enhancement feature that overclock the CPU by default we recommend disabling this feature you can overclock manually if you what modern motherboards do a pretty good job of setting the right memory speed and timings based on the modules installed some modules like a Corsair Dominators at their speed and timings programmed into special XMP profile site can be accessed via the firmware unless you know a cast latency means stick with the auto or exit P profiles next navigate to the storage section at the firmware make sure the Serial ATA two controllers set to AHCI mode which enables Command Queuing also enable hot plugging for any sadder ports you might want to swap drives on well the system is still running will enable hot plugging for the satyr port associated with the cases dry dock take a moment to set the boot order if the operating system will be installed from a DVD set the system’s optical drive as the primary boot device if you’re-installing the operating system from a thumb drive set that is the primary boot device to ensure the fam drive is available zap ruder option connected before powering on the system now check the secondary boot device system has selected the hard drive by default we’re going to change that to the SSD most for more has a separate menu for changing the hard drive boot priority chain controls are one there’s a lot of variety in motherboard firmware most porch and offer some kind of smart setting for the CPU are pl-v Ashby has a couple have preset profiles in addition to the ability to tweak temperature ranges and fan speeds manually some other board for more features a fan typesetting designed to differentiate between DC and PWM baths the fans connected to the motherboard have four pin plugs use the PWM setting.

DC fans have three cans since we installed a sound card in our system will turn off the motherboard’s integrated audio by disabling HD Audio in the peripheral section there’s no need for two audio devices to be active at the same time the most motherboard for more supports multiple configuration profiles before moving on save the firmware Settings to an available profile slot.

this will allow you to revert back to our baseline settings quickly if you make additional changes or if you want to dabble in overclocking we recommend Windows for desktop see we’re going to use Windows since its Microsoft’s latest OS and the one most likely to be installed on new builds early in the installation process will be asked where to install Windows make sure to install the OS to the SSD if you have one window should reside on the fastest ride on the system selection menu doesn’t list the drugs by name .

But it’s easy to spot or neutron SSD’s smaller capacity once the installation drive has been selected Windows will do its thing rebooting is necessary after prop computer name and colour scheme Windows offers express and custom install options we recommend a custom install that lets you enable various OS features depending on your preferences when you reach the windows modern UI start screen it’s time to start updating drivers first install the latest platform drivers also known as chipset drivers for the motherboard .

These are best downloaded directly from AMD or Intel driver integrated networking plus any auxiliary per frills like US beers at a controller’s can be downloaded from the motherboard makers website if you’re without an internet connection entirely or if you need to install the board’s networking driver to get online there should be a driver disk in the motherboard box these drivers may not be the latest versions but they should work the graphics card will come with its driver disk ignoring grab the latest drivers from Invidia depending on whether you have a radio on or a G-force new graphics drivers are frequently released a gamer should stay on top of those updates PC audio tends to move slowly.

But it’s still worth checking to see if your sound card maker offers a newer driver than what’s on the included CD if you’re using the motherboard’s integrated audio download the appropriate drivers from the board makers website what’s all the drivers are updated launched the Windows device manager the quickest way to do this in Windows is using the hot corner in the lower left corner of the desktop if all the drivers are installed correctly the Device Manager window should look a little like this one yellow triangular icons with exclamation marks will be visible next to any devices that require attention finally fire up Windows Update and download the latest patches for the operating system Windows will want to install updates during your PC’s next scheduled maintenance period .

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